OK. Where do I start? Seriously...
I had no idea what I was getting into when I booked the guesthouse at the base of the waterfalls. I just knew I wanted to stay as close to them as possible. The fresh, clear water I swung into this morning is still very fresh in my mind, body and soul. I suppose that's where to begin. It was the reason I went, but not the reason I found whatever it was I was looking for on this journey.
Over lemongrass omelets for breakfast, I talked with my new friend Gail (Laoation woman who lives in Luang Prabang) about what it was in my experience at that place (Vanvisa Gueshouse 2) that made me find what I was seeking. It was the combination of everything really. It was taking a short nap upon my arrival on the deck overlooking the river then walking inside and being invited for my first Laoation meal...lunch of sticky rice, papaya salad, local greens soup, and chili paste. It was then the afternoon swim in one of the many waterfall pools, then the afternoon nap. That first day was settling in and relaxing even further.
Dinner that first night was something I will never forget (though, most of this trip will probably be like that). Last month was Laoation new year and none of the family was able to get together, and everyone was there on that first night. I watched the passing of offerings to Madame Vandara (owner of the house) and her husband...the tradition of new year is to honor the elders and give thanks for family while appologizing for any bad things that have happened in the last year. I sat down (on the floor, of course) with the elders, Gail and a couple other family members for dinner. Laap was served (completely pounded and ground meat with chili and lemongrass seasoning) along with salamander soup (yes, I ate it) fresh spinach (that we collected from the local organic garden) and, of course, sticky rice. Each meal is finished with fresh fruit (collected from the trees on the property) and consist of lychee, banana, and mango. Lemongrass tea is the typical after dinner drink and it seems no liquid is consumed while eating (in the traditional way) but rather saved for the end. I slept like a log that night...on my very firm mattress surrounded by the softness of a mosquito net.
Breakfast was, of course, lovely and I started off the next day to the waterfalls. I felt like I was the first one in and didn't want to just jump in and swim on my own (I got over that quickly). After climbing up many many many stairs carved into the side of the mountain, I made it to the top of the falls...looking out over the valley was fantastic. Then I saw people...they were just making their way down to the uppermost turquoise blue pool and I thought I would join them. The climb down was a bit sketchy, but the reward was the most amazing river swimming I've ever done. The pool was perched atop a ~80 meter cliff and was probably 10 meters deep. The perfect limetone diving platform was about 2 meters above the pool...and in I went...into deep turquoise bliss. The people were fun and we wound up spending the rest of the day together exploring all around the area...taking turns to pools uninhabited by others and just enjoying the time. At the end of the day I walked back down to my guesthouse and my new friends found their way home (back to Luang Prabang) on a tuk tuk.
That evening I learned how to cook Laoation food. The kitchen is outside and they use two wood fired "burners" and woks. The meal was coconut based with pork, pumpkin, and of course, chili. But it was the fried fish salad that topped everything. It tasted so amazing and fresh...it is useless for me to explain the ingredients, you'll just have to taste it when I cook it for you (tofu fo you steffanie). The most interesting thing I ate, by far, must have been the omelet cooked with ant eggs (they're collected from a huge nest that grows from a mango tree). Wow. The conversation while cooking turned to the idea of being inthe now...of really participating in the activity in which you are conducting. The explanation of Madame Vandara and Gail made it seem so simple. It's easy to be present for a moment...but it's the act of doing in with regularity, even while bathing or sitting in traffic is what makes even the most fun activities that much more pleasurable. Feeling what we are feeling in each and every second is important. My multitasking mind struggles with that simple feat, but I think the way it was explained made it seem more clear to me. I hope to bring that simple thing back with me. I was hoping for that tool.
Yesterday was another lovely one with a hike first to the source spring for the waterfalls. I have never seen so many butterflies in my entire life...astonishing and amazing. Eventually, upon my return, I will post photographs, but it's hard to capture the little guys when they're flying by...they were continuously surrounding and landing on me. Madame Vandara was the guide for the hike and we were accompanied by a french couple - water color painters/teachers. They stopped to paint at the spring. After a lot of loveliness, we walked back a different way and into a small village where there was a very very unexpected feast being prepared for us. We ate by a river and drank from bamboo cups. Again, the food, amazing... I had no idea I was getting that for lunch. The rest of the day at the river was swimming and perfecting my waterfall rope swing technique...that was until I face planted into the water after about the 10th time...my hands were tired. oops! When I arrived back at the house, I sat down with the french water color painters and the man taught me how to paint...so, I learned how to correctly paint a water color! It inspired me to take a class, and I hope to do that upon my return.
That night I realized that I had gotten what I had hoped to achieve out of my trip. I had no plans for it, but I wanted to spend time at the waterfall, develop some deeper form of introspection and therefore have a new tool to get me through each day, and I really wanted to paint (water color was what I thought). How did those things just fall into place? They happened because I was not holding onto anything tangible and I just flowed. I found people, places, things, as they came to me and didn't design any ultimate plan. You get what you put out there when you let it all go. Traveling is easy for those things...they come, they help you to live. But, it's harder in the day to day of regular life. One moment at a time, I hope to bring in the beingness that I have rememered. I hope to relax and be truly aware of my actions in all moments (no matter what they are). I think that, in and of itself, brings a sense of peace.
Tonight, I'm back in Luang Prabang. This morning, while doing some last and solo swings into that beautiful pool, I found the friends I met at the waterfall a couple of days ago (they made the trip out again). I am staying at their guest house and will perhaps see them later, for my last night in Laos. And when I get home, I'll bring a lot of this place back with me...and I hope to return.
Peace, love, and respect to you all.
