Flying in from Bangkok the ground looked bare...it went from rice fields to lush forest to nothing. The nothing was either brown or greenish and pocked with trees and what I thought were sand pits. Upon closer inspection I realized they were filled with muddy water...land mine scars, perhaps? Cambodia was war torn in very recent history, but I have to say that aside from the barren landscape (except for near Siem Reap), I haven't seen much of that. I was told it would be prevalent and shocking and hard. The bad rap that this town got for being a place of sad souls and beggars has been proven wrong. It's cars, trucks, tuk tuks, motorcycles, bicycles, and restaurants as far as I can tell. Well, that's on the main streets...side streets are different...with the "spas" and karaoke huts. ... ......
Until you get a little bit further back into the real streets, where the real people live. The houses I saw today were on wooden stilts, made out of 2x4s and ply wood, and filled with happy people bathing children while others run and play games in the dirt streets. It's a village.
I wandered into a Buddhist monk's area...called Wat Bo. It's also the name of the neighborhood where I'm staying. It's more quiet (or at least that's what they say) than the other, more touristy, parts of the city. I walked into the grounds and there were a couple of monks hanging about, but really no one to be found. I took it upon myself to stroll...pausing in front of golden clad Buddha, and taking photos of the small crowded pagodas (consequently a mausoleum where the ashes of an entire family are put inside a single pagoda after cremation). It was peaceful, quiet, and I was the only one around. I walked around the main temple and a monk saw me...he asked me if I would like to go inside. Of course!
Ta Thom was his name. He invited me in and told me that today was the day of protection and it was his job to clean the temple. He unlocked the door and proceeded to open the shuddered windows one by one...slowly revealing the paintings on the walls. They were covered with Hindu art, most of which the Buddhist monk doesn't understand, but he tried to tell me some of the stories. Then he told me that I was very lucky...today is the day of prayer and quiet for the monks. "No visitors come today, but you came, and you are lucky because we arrived at the same time...that way you get to see the temple all by yourself". That's right Ta Thom...alllll byyy mysehehellff. ;) We talked for over an hour...he told me stories of why he became a monk and of what his daily ritual entails. He asked me for help with his English homework. Well, really, he did most of the talking. I did a lot of listening. He was practicing his English...or so he told me. I think he was happy to have an excuse to get out of his temple cleaning chores. I left him with my email address and took his photo. He said he would send me messages and asked that I write him back and help him with his grammar...that is his biggest struggle it seems, learning English grammar is hard for him. No kidding Ta Thom!
The late afternoon I got a ride from my personal tuk tuk driver, Mr. Koon. He's awesome. He drove me into Angkor Wat and dropped me at the ticket booth. He has basically planned out my first three days...I'm just gonna go with it. He'll drive me around and take me to see temples far and near. He's reliable, friendly, and has a cute golden toothed smile. So, as we got in, I had a glimpse of Angkor Wat, but just a glimpse before it started to POUR down rain. He quickly stopped and zipped down the sides of my open air back seat...kind of like riding in the back of a jeep, really. He finally dropped me off and handed me an umbrella and said, follow those people. OK...I went...up up up...up to the top of a hill with a temple on top. There were 5 flights of 10 steps each...the steps as narrow as my foot is wide and as tall as my knee. From the top, at least some of the VAST Angkor complex was visible...Angkor Wat off in the distance and Tonle Sap Lake to the south. The rain stopped...the sun set...and it was stunning. I left my camera in my room...so that one was just for me.
Then, back we came into the bustling town. I think I'm going to have to call it a night since I have to leave the guesthouse at 5AM tomorrow for the sunrise.
Good night friends.
